Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Long time no blog

Well, it's been a serious while since I updated the blog, but it's mostly because I haven't been up to anything particularly interesting. The usual activities of teaching, eating and wandering about Suji have filled up my time the way they usually do. Sadly, despite my long absence, I can't promise anything too exciting with this update but, since I feel like I should at least share something, I've compiled a little photo series of my usual food haunts, along with a few miscellaneous shots.

This is Mi-mandoo, my favorite place to score my favorite snack: Mandoo. It's sort of a steamed dumpling (also available at Chinese places, only fried) that is filled with either pork and vegetables or kimchi. Myself, I like to get the variety pak that comes with five of each for only about $2.50. It's a delicious, filling, inexpensive and even relatively healthy meal. I'd say I should write commercials for these things, but they could sell themselves to a fire hydrant. Love 'em. This is also where I like to get kimbap and chamchi kimbap, both delicious variations on the rice-rolled-in-seaweed theme.And this, of course, is Pizza school. Delicious medium-sized pizza (feeds one for about a day) for five bucks! Can't beat that, well, that and the fact that it's right on my route from work back home and a great place to read student's essays while I wait for the pizza.


This is the interior of Music Cafe, or as we call it, "Treehouse Bar." It's located in the area of Suji known as "Dirty Suji," where most of the restaurants and Karaoke rooms are located. This place is amazing. I don't think pictures convey how cool it is. The wall to the right of this shot is one giant chalkboard on which are scribbled words in many different languages (albeit mostly Korean, English and Japanese) and the wall is hung with classic albums. Like, really classic - Elvis and Willie Nelson classic. The table and chairs (and sometimes benches) are all mismatched and scattered hodgepodge about the place. Also, did I mention the giant friggin' fake tree that is the centerpiece? The traditional Korean drinks are served in intentionally dent-riddled brass pots, and the music is an eclectic mix of hits from five years ago interspersed with Hank Williams and The Four Tops. But the real charm of Music Cafe comes from its compartmental seating options:
Here you can more clearly see the chalkboard walls, and also the cool segmented, elevated dining options available for the valued customers of the Music Cafe of Suji! This is actually where we went for my birthday, and we sat up there on the platform on the left. Here's a detail of what I wrote on the wall:
There it is, right next to the vent fan. It says

"タイラーはたんじょうびにました。"

Which is totally Japanese for "Tyler was here on his birthday."

Well, that's about it for the pictures. This week (yesterday, in fact) was Chuseok, the Korean thanksgiving day. This means I haven't had to work all week! Unfortunately, it also means that everything is closed up and I'm really bored. I've been taking some of the time to start to learn how to read Korean and complete some other writing projects, but unfortunately that can't last me all day or I'll go crazy! Maybe I'm going crazy anyhow.

Or at least I would be going crazy if I hadn't been reading the sublimely insane Overcompensating.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

The Miracle of Skype

I just got off the "phone" with Elise! I used Skype to call her mobile phone in Mali and, while it cost over 28 cents a minute, it was well worth it. You can reach me on skype at the user name "stokesty@gmail.com" If you have Skype as well, we can talk and even use video for free! It's a really good program.

I also wanted to share this picture:
This is the last thing an outdated digital camera ever sees. Look upon the future... and despair! This is a shot of one of the store displays in the Electronics Mart in Youngsan. That place is truly an awe-inspiring shopping experience. I am planning on upgrading my digital camera next month, possibly to an Olympus 725, which is what Matt was shopping for when we went here on Tuesday morning (I got a phone). Haggling is the name of the game, and often it only involves moving from vendor to vendor, displaying the price the last one gave you and daring them to beat it or throw something extra in. They also do trade-ins, although my camera is old I might be able to get a few bucks for the battery and charger.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Photo B(ack)log

Twice the pun for the price of one, haha!

Anyway, without further ado, here's a minimalistic chronicle of the cabin trip my coworkers and I took this weekend.

But first, we begin in Suji, near the huge (and hugely expensive) Shinsege Mall. This is an upper-crust kind of place - for example, they're just about to open a Louis Vuitton boutique. This is at one end of the luxurious under-street walkway. After coming up a set of escalators (mind you, this is all just to cross underneath the street, not inside the mall or anything), you are greeted by this charming little waterfall setup. I had to take a picture because I liked the post-modern feel of the bareness of the blocks and the use of concrete and plain tile, combined with the old-fashioned style in which the little turtles were carved:
They appeared to be made out of some kind of fake jade, but I appreciated the little detail that they added to the very 1970's Po-mo thing the whole waterfall setup had going on. In fact, if I were feeling academic (and I am), I would speculate that this waterfall isn't a half-bad symbol for where Korea finds itself today - an increasingly powerful country in the modern era, participating and participating quite well in the trappings of now-a-days, leading the world in electronics and communications technology. However, perched upon all that post-modern uniformity is a small reminder of the strong traditions and proud heritage that still support this country. In fact, since being here, I've become appraised of a bit of Korean history that relates to turtles, which I will in transition share with you here. In 1592, when Korea was under siege from the invading Japanese, the impressive armadas of Hideyoshi Daimyo (the then-leader of a newly unified Japan) provided one of the most significant threats to Korea's sovereignty. The Koreans were severely outnumbered on the water, yet success in this area was crucial. The innovative Korean Admiral Yi Sun-san came up with the Turtle Ships, low-riding warships that were equipped with armored and spiked plating that completely covered the deck of the ship, causing them to resemble snapping turtles and giving them their name. These were essentially the first "submarines," enclosed although they were unable to actually submerge. They were armed with dragon heads on the prow that not only added psychological warfare to the boat's arsenal, but also actually emitted toxic gas that occluded the ship's position and allowed it to use its other unique weapon - an extension in the rear of the ship that could ram into enemy boats. Also the dragon's head could be armed with a long-range Korean cannon to take down ships from a distance, in addition to the usual deployment of eleven to fifteen side-mounted cannons. These Turtle Ships were an invaluable addition to the Korean flotilla and inflicted costly wounds upon Hideyoshi's armada.

Returning to the present tense, we have a very modern institution: a typical example of a Lotte Mart, the flagship establishment of Lotte corporation. This is the Lotte mart in Suji, about three blocks from the hagwon I teach at. This behemoth is about five floors of partitioned purchasing pleasure. The first floor is a grocery store, about as big as any you'd find here (although falling a bit short of your average Cub Foods or Rainbow Supermarket), I'd say it's about comparable to the grocery section of a Super Target. It's a good place to stock up on anything you can't find at your local market (Sing Sing Market for me), or if you want some of those same things at a cheaper price. My best finds include liters of skim milk that come with free vegetable juice and a box of cereal that came with a free nalgene-style water bottle taped to the outside of it. Good cereal, too. The second floor is divided into sections - there's a department-style store that takes up most of the floor, including clothing, electronics and home appliances. There's also a little instrument store, where I found this little gem:Reform Pianos? Drat. Where can I find the Orthodox Pianos? Anyhow, on the third floor of Lotte Mart (which foreign locals lovingly refer to as "Scrotte Mart") are several more little shops, including a T.G.I. Friday's and a pet store. It's kind of like a mall that's all owned by one huge company.

But you didn't come here today to hear about my life in Suji, did you? You came with the promise of hearing about the Korean countryside and my adventures with my coworkers.

Ok.

Eight of us hopped into J-Bomb's van at about 2:20 on Saturday afternoon. It took us half an hour to get to Lotte Mart. I should mention something. That's about 3 BLOCKS. The traffic was absolutely insane on the part of the highway that goes from downtown Suji to over where Lotte mart is. Once we got out of downtown, it was smooth sailing, however, and soon we left the bustle of Suji for the rolling mountainous countryside of regions south of Seoul. Korea is about 77% mountains, and it really shows. The narrow valleys between the gorgeous peaks were at first filled with sky-rise apartments much like the ones we left behind in Suji, only less omnipresent, but those soon gave way to smaller housing complexes and gravel pits and eventually, finally, gloriously, open country and farmland. We passed the exit for "Everland," Korea's largest theme park, and I made a note that it's pretty dang close to Suji and I should visit sometime soon. We eventually made a pit stop at some sort of weird restaurant/rest stop/zoo, where I of course snapped some pictures of the animals in their cages. They had quite a variety, from this proud peacock to a huge hare to, um...
Rottweilers? Ok, I guess that makes sense. These little puppies and their rather dejected-looking mom were penned up between the Hare and a bunch of exotic-looking fowl. Dad was in a cage next-door, and the intrepid puppies had found one peg of the cage bars between them that was bent up enough to crawl though. It was kind of sad. Anyhow, after we all got back in the van, we continued up into the mountains and through several small towns (and over several speed bumps that send my head into the roof of the van on two occasions. Finally, we came to the resort, which was much nicer than I had anticipated. There were a couple of very friendly (insistently so) dogs that wouldn't leave us alone the whole time, and the owner was very friendly as well. We began by playing some soccer in the small field by the house, climbed trees and played a game of kickball. The cabin came equipped with a set of badminton rackets and a shuttlecock, so that saw some use as well. All in all, at first, there were nine of us at the cabin: Myself, Matt, Bobby, Korean teachers Ross, Kelly and J-bomb, and secretaries Han-sun, Somi and Eun-jin. Later we were joined by Yakubu, Mr. Lee (the big boss), Mr. Park (the lead supervisor), Jay (the director and organizer of classes), Mr. Lee's girlfriend (who used to be a secretary) and another teacher. Here's a picture of the cabin:
As you can see, it's two stories, with plenty of lovely windows and seating available. This picture was taken when we first arrived, it was probably around 6 or so in the afternoon. When all the others arrived, we started playing some Presidents and Assholes, and we even taught Mr. Lee how to play. Nothing like being able to call your boss a "Vice-asshole." We had a wonderful dinner of Galbi (which is lettuce, rice and grilled meat, held in the palm of your hand) and grilled shrimp, cooked by Mr. Lee and Ross. The next few pictures won't require as much description, so I'll probably just caption them as I show them.Here's a view of the other side of the cabin. That's Mr. Park on the left, then Somi and Eun-Jin. The TV there has a karaoke machine built in to the DVD player, which we utilized later in the evening.
Here's Yakubu and Bobby (in front) and Matt on the other side of the table.
Here's the gang playing a Korean drinking game called "3 6 9" You count around the circle, clapping instead of saying any numbers that contain 3, 6 or 9. The fact that we were allowed to count in either Korean or English complicated matters significantly, and plans were laid to get people to mess up.

The next day, after a night of karaoke and games and lots of fun, we packed up and got ready to head out to the mountains.Here's another picture of everybody in the field outside our cabin. That's Matt over near the soccer ball. The two actually looking at me are Ross and J-Bomb, from the left. Behind Ross is Bobby. On the far side of the triangle of girls is Eun-jin, the closest is Somi, and the one holding her hands together is Han-sun.Han-sun and Somi in front of a mountain by the cabin.


Here's the gang underneath a gate at the entrance to the path going up a mountain. We "climbed" this mountain to the top of the paved path, which was very beautiful and ran alongside a mountain stream. At the top was this marvel, presented in three parts!
This Ginkgo tree is over 1,100 years old! They know this because it was a gift to the emperor of Korea at the time, and has lived ever since. It's also monstrously huge! At the top of the mountain path was also this lovely shrine:
We also got to drink some delicious cold fresh mountain spring water and generally be touristy. This was kind of new for the secretaries, as well, since although they are all from Korea they are big-time city girls. They even wore heels to hike up the mountain. Whoops.

We stopped to play around in the stream for a while on the way down. I made a traveler's shrine:
Anyone who passes this shrine may now add a rock to the top and make a wish! Good stuff. Finally, down at the bottom of the mountain we indulged in a somewhat more modern pleasure:
That's right, a viking ride. You can see Matt, Eun-jin and Ross enjoying it on the other side.

After the ride, we piled back into the car, stopped for some bibibap for lunch/dinner and made a long, long, slow ride back to Suji - it took five hours. Much of this was spent crammed in a corner of the van fitfully sleeping while listening to Con Brio. All in all, a fantastic weekend.

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Photo-a-Day Double Dose Payday Special Extravaganza!

That's right, Wednesday was payday. You know what that means - too busy spending money to put a photo up. But seriously, I was really busy yesterday, and only some of it involved spending money. So I have for you today, gentle readers, a double dose of photographs, rather different, including my first photograph actually involving people. That's right, real, live people. Korean people! And one American. But first, this:
This is a shop that I saw out the window of the 500-1 bus that travels from Suji to Sunae (in Bundang) this bus is the fastest way to travel between these two cities and, as I'm beginning to expand my network in that city-I-almost-worked-in, I think I'll probably end up riding it quite a bit. I took this picture on the way to play poker at a bar by Sunae station with David and some of his coworkers at SLI - Bundang on Wednesday night. Specifically, this lovely little restaurant is in the neighborhood of Migeum - kind of like Suji plus. It's fairly big, very modern, lots of great shops and restaurants. The name of this one caught my eye as a particularly illustrative example of the way English has infiltrated the culture here. All I know is that I would definitely patronize a restaurant named "I love you." You can also see a Chinese character on the right of the neon sign. This is also a common tendency, especially in banking circles, where Chinese has heavily infiltrated the language. Also, I would definitely enjoy spending some more time in Migeum.
This is a photo of me and a few of my students. From the left, there's Tom, me, Christine, Jin Su, Chris, Andy and Michelle. These are a few students from Global Leaders 1, probably my favorite class to teach. They're among my higher-level students, lots of fun and very interested in learning English. Today in class I gave the class a really difficult crossword to do based on their vocabulary review (words like consequently, obtain, phenomenon and conflict). The group that finished with all the correct answers the fastest would be treated after class to a bowl of Ddeokbukgi, or rolled rice cakes in pepper sauce. Delicious! I also treated myself to a "chicken bar" which I think was actually fried pork in the same pepper sauce. Also delicious! I even got the kids to pose with me for a picture. I chose this picture over another, more posed one that we had taken because I think it shows the kids' personalities a lot more. Tom on the left is really quiet, Christine is a model student (she even helped me organize the order and taught me the numbers two and three so I could order properly), Jin Su and Andy are quite goofy, and Chris and Michelle fall somewhere in between. It's classes like these that are the most rewarding to teach, when they pay attention and actually seem interested in what I have to teach them.

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Streetscape


This is one of many ubiquitous and mysterious doorways that line the street around here. When I eventually learn enough Korean to avoid stumbling blindly from one doorway to another like a renegade but slow-moving pinball, I'll be able to discern where exactly this door leads. The purpose of the large red portal-like object in front of the door is still a bit of a mystery to me as well.
I chose this picture that I took this evening because I think it illustrates a little bit of the mystery I still experience living here. For one, I'm not sure what these red, blue and green things are. They're scattered all over street corners and they're usually accompanied by piles of neatly stacked trash surrounding them. Upon opening the door, there is a cylindrical hollow which appears to serve no purpose whatsoever. Are these mailboxes? Public unlocked lockers? I have no idea, and it's exciting. Second, I have no idea where this door leads. It is not at all unique in that respect - there are so many doors leading off the streets of Seoul, doors that lead into stairways that could lead into anything - Noraebang, bars ("hof"), jimjibang (spas) or even just restaurants or residences. There's an ongoing sense of discovery every time I find myself following friends up a new stairway.

Monday, September 3, 2007

The Photo-a-Day Project

In an attempt to both hone my photographic reflex and to force myself to update this blog more often, I've decided to try to post at least one photograph a day of my Korean experience. I expect these photographs will vary greatly in both subject and subjective quality. Hopefully they will improve in artistic merit as the year rolls on, and hopefully my writing will as well.

Without further self-indulgent shenanigans, here's the first photo, taken this afternoon:
This is the food stand at the corner of downtown Suji. Here they sell various fried foods and grilled corn on the cob (which is delicious). This picture also highlights the weird diversity of downtown Suji - the short, advertisement-covered commercial buildings surrounded by the unadorned towering high-rise apartments. I chose this picture for the first day because I wanted a sort of establishing shot - I spend probably five minutes a day waiting for the light to change here, and I like this spot - good for people watching, close to excellent food, and about halfway between work and the apartment.